How to Clean Your Blinds!

No matter what kind of blinds you have—wooden, fabric and vertical are the three basic types—these tips will make their cleaning and maintenance easy:

1. Vacuum blinds often with the brush attachment. Vacuum across the slats, not up and down.

2. Use a lamb's-wool duster, again working across the slats and starting at the top. Do not use plastic dusters.

3. When dusting or vacuuming vertical blinds, brush downward only, as the slats often become unhooked if you brush upward.

4. Use a rubber sponge, also known as a dry sponge (found at hardware and paint stores), to remove dust and residue from both fabric and vinyl blinds. Simply wipe the dry sponge firmly across the blinds.

5. For spot cleaning, spray an all-purpose cleaner onto a clean dry cloth and wipe the soiled area of the blind. Never spray the cleaner directly onto the blind.

6. You can wet wooden blinds when cleaning, but don't soak them. Clean them in place instead of removing them as you would for other types of blinds.

7. If fabric blinds become very dirty, take them to a dry cleaner.

8. Do not try cleaning blinds by spraying them with a car-wash hose, dunking them in the tub or one slat at a time.

9. To clean metal and vinyl blinds, follow this method: Take the blinds outside to your patio or driveway and lay them on a small rug or piece of carpet. Put a few drops of dishwashing soap in a bucket of water. Wet a car-washing brush and brush the blinds from side to side, and then turn them over and brush the other side. Rinse the blinds gently with a garden hose while tilting them so that the water runs off. To prevent water spots from forming, quickly run your finger down the slats a couple of times to remove excess water. When done, drape the blinds over a fence or a couch to dry.

• Visit www.makemoneywindowcleaning.co.uk for information o n how to start a window cleaning business 

How to Clean Your Wellies!

Regardless of whether you live in the countryside or in a more urban setting, taking long walks through fields, forests and parks is always a fun and invigorating family activity. Little explorers will love jumping into nests of crunchy leaves and puddles, meaning those wellies are likely to get extra muddy.

So that the mess doesn’t get in the way of the fun, we’ve put together some simple tips on how to clean wellington boots so that you and your family can focus on those important outside adventures.

Cleaning wellies: the exterior

The first step of cleaning wellington boots should focus on the outside. After all, this is where all that caked dirt is going to be found.
Start by brushing any bits of dried dirt that are easy to remove. Leave any old patches that don’t come away easily. You might want to do this outside or over some old newspaper to avoid giving yourself another cleaning job on your floors!
Next, soak a cloth in warm water and work your way down each boot from the top. Don’t worry too much if some mud is left on the boot after this step.
Soak another cloth in a soapy solution made from a teaspoonful of washing-up liquid and a litre of water and repeat the above step. Work in a circular motion from the top to the bottom. If you’ve got some stubborn mud still sticking to the boot, it’s worth spending some extra time rubbing it off now.
Turn your boot upside down and use a soft brush (a toothbrush is perfect) to get bits of mud out of the soles, dipping it in the soapy liquid and brushing back and forth gently while taking care not to damage the soles.
Finish the job by wiping the boots down with water and a clean cloth. It’s important to get the soap off all areas of the boot when cleaning wellies to avoid any damage or marks.

Cleaning wellington boots: the interior

With your boots nice and clean on the outside it is time to look at the interior. Sometimes the boot lining needs a little TLC from to prevent unpleasant smelly wellies.
Make a cleaning solution with warm water and a little non-bio detergent.
Dip a cloth or rag in the solution and rub the inside of the boot. Dip another cloth in plain, warm water and wipe off the solution.
Leave your boots to dry naturally. If smells persist then you can leave a little bicarbonate of soda in them overnight – it’s a great natural deodoriser!

Top tip: You can also mix equal parts hot water and white vinegar and either rub or spray it on the inside of your boots if smells persist. The natural acids in the vinegar will get rid of any lingering smells.

How to dry wellies

Wondering how to dry wellies once you’ve finished cleaning them? The best thing for wellington boots is to let them dry naturally, away from direct sunlight. Avoid the temptation of putting them by a radiator or sticking a hair dryer down them and instead put them in a dry and airy place.

Top tip: after cleaning wellington boots, stuff them with old newspaper to soak up excess fluid and help them dry faster.

How to clean wellies ‘blooming’

Sometimes wellington boots can develop a white marbled pattern known as ‘blooming’. This is actually a sign that your wellies are of good quality natural rubber, but not everyone is a fan of the marble effect.

If you want to get your boots back their original shiny look, you can either use a commercial spray for wellington boots or try rubbing a couple of drops of olive oil into the boot with a clean cloth. 

• Visit www.makemoneywindowcleaning.co.uk for information o n how to start a window cleaning business 

Remember to try this in an inconspicuous place before treating the whole boot.

How to Clean Your Curtains!

Curtains add a finishing touch to any reception room or bedroom, yet they can often be overlooked until the spring clean comes around simply because it’s hard to know where to start.

To help, we’ve put together this guide on how to wash curtains of all types, including heavy fabrics that may need special care. With regular care, washing curtains needn’t be a chore.

When to turn to the washing machine

People often ask ‘can you machine wash curtains?’ The answer is yes, but only in some cases. Many curtains will have a washing label, so try to find this and read the manufacturer’s advice before you proceed. These instructions will show you the best way to wash curtains and let you know if it is safe to pop them into the washing machine, and at what temperature.

If in doubt, lightweight fabrics which won’t retain much water, such as cotton, are usually fine to wash in the washing machine with your usual laundry detergent. Choose a ‘delicates’ cycle, or a cool wash on a slower spin cycle.

If you want to know how to wash net curtains, you can approach these as you would any other lightweight fabric. Keep a good pre-wash stain remover on hand for places where they may have become discoloured or dirty from the windows or being handled and consider washing them inside a laundry bag or pillowcase to prevent damage in the drum.

How to hand wash curtains

If your curtains are made of delicate fabrics and you’re worried about damaging or creasing them, a hand wash is a safer route that will minimise the risk of this happening.

Try handwashing delicate curtains with Handwash Powder, which cleans well at low temperatures. It’s best to use the bath or a large sink so you do not have to wash the curtains in sections and risk missing an area.

Again, be careful to avoid letting the fabric become water logged and consult the washing label for advice on the water temperature to use.

Drying your curtains

Whether you’ve opted for a machine wash or hand wash, drying your curtains well is key to avoid mould or musty odours. If you can, line dry your curtains on a dry, sunny day with a good breeze to get as much air around them as possible. Direct sunlight may affect some colours or fabrics though, so try to avoid putting them in too bright an area of the garden.

Alternatively, if the wash label permits, you can tumble dry your curtains on a low setting. Remove them when they’re 95% dry and leave to air dry naturally to avoid setting wrinkles. If your curtains are looking a bit crinkly after line or tumble drying, check the wash label and iron on the setting recommended.

One of the key things to remember when you wash curtains is drying time. Large amounts of heavy fabric can retain lots of water, which mean your curtains can take a long time to dry which could make them musty. These fabrics are often better off being steam cleaned.

Maintaining clean curtains

If you’re wondering ‘how often should I wash my curtains?’ there is no straightforward answer. We advise you give them a deep clean about twice a year, but you may need to clean them more often if your home is prone to dust or odours.

You can help keep them looking better for longer by going over them once a week with the brush attachment of your vacuum. This will help lift surface dust and help you enjoy fresh looking curtains for longer.

How to Clean Hardwood Floors!

Hardwood Floors: Preventive Maintenance

Cut hardwood-floor cleaning time with smart preventive maintenance. Position mats both outside and inside exterior doors to lessen tracked-in dirt. In snowy or rainy weather, include a boot removal area to avoid damage from water and de-icers.

Prevent marks by using floor protectors under furniture and by using rugs in play areas to ensure children's toys don't scratch the floor.

Hardwood Floors: Basic Care

Speed up the cleaning process by first dusting the floor with a mop that has been treated with a dusting agent to pick up dust, dirt, and pet hair that might scratch the floor surface. For weekly or biweekly cleaning, vacuum with a floor-brush attachment on a vacuum cleaner or an electric broom. Do not use a vacuum with a beater bar attachment, which can scratch a wood floor's finish. For quick dusting, use disposable electrostatic cloths, available at grocery and discount stores. Save money by using both sides of the disposable cloths.

Hardwood Floors: Deeper Cleaning

Dirt, oil, and grime build up over time and aren't completely removed by a weekly dust mopping. For occasional deep cleaning (consider doing the cleaning in the spring or just before the winter holidays), use a wood-cleaning product diluted according to the label instructions. Saturate a sponge or rag mop in the water, then wring it almost dry so it feels only slightly damp to the touch. Damp-mop the floor, being careful to prevent standing water on the floor. Rinse with a clean mop dampened in clear water, but only if the cleaning product requires it. Wipe up excess liquid because standing water can damage wood surfaces. If the weather is humid, operate a ceiling fan or the air-conditioner to speed up drying.

Hardwood Floors: Removing Marks

Consider your floor's finish before trying to remove a mark. If the stain is on the surface, your floor probably has a hard finish, such as urethane. If the stain has penetrated through to the wood, the floor probably has a soft oiled finish -- common in older homes whose floors have not been refinished and resealed. Wipe surface stains from a hard finish with a soft, clean cloth. Never use sandpaper, steel wool, or harsh chemicals on such a surface because they can permanently damage the finish.

The following remedies are for hardwood floors with soft oiled finishes. If needed, end each treatment by staining the wood, then waxing and buffing the spot to match the rest of the floor.

Dark spots and pet stains: Rub the spot with No. 000 steel wool and floor wax. If the area is still dark, apply bleach or vinegar and allow it to soak into the wood for about an hour. Rinse with a damp cloth.
Heel marks: Use fine steel wool to rub in floor wax.
Oil-base stains: Rub the area with a soft cloth and dishwashing detergent to break down the grease. Rinse with clear water. If one or more applications don't work, repeat the procedure. Keep children and pets out of the room until you're done. Let the spot dry, then smooth the raised grain with fine sandpaper.
Water marks or white stains: Rub the spot with No. 000 steel wool and floor wax. If the stain goes deeper, lightly sand the floor and clean with fine steel wool and odorless mineral spirits.

How To Clean White Trainers...Fast!

How to Wash Trainer Laces

First, remove the laces and give them a good scrub with a soapy toothbrush on a washboard or draining board. If you are putting them in the washing machine with the rest of your wash, pin them into a bag or pocket first so they don’t get lost. You may have noticed that white laces are the first thing to show the dirt, so even just washing this part (or switching them for a darker colour) is going to be a big step in bringing those trainers back to life.

Preparations for Washing Trainers

As for the shoes, before taking them near any water, carefully brush off any surface dirt. You know – all the sand from the sandpit, dust from the playground, mud from the football pitch, the chewing gum they accidentally stepped in… Be really thorough. Use a toothpick, cotton bud or pin to get into all the nooks and crannies. Getting rid of as much dirt as possible to begin with will prevent any of it seeping further into the fabric or making your washing water too muddy.

How to Wash Trainers with a Sponge

Using a soft cloth or sponge, warm water and a small amount of washing detergent, carefully clean the waterproof parts of the shoe such as the sole, reflective panels or leather detailing. Already the shoes should be starting to look better.

Now to tackle the trickier fabric areas. These can be gently cleaned with a sponge, soft cloth or brush and a fresh batch of soapy water. For tougher stains, dab on some neat detergent and leave for about 15 minutes. When the shoes look clean, or as clean as you think you can get them given what your child’s been up to in them, wipe away any detergent with clean water and a fresh cloth.

Can You Put Trainers in the Washing Machine?

Many modern trainers are sturdy enough to withstand a machine wash (but always check the manufacturer’s instructions first). We recommend putting shoes in a mesh bag for protection, along with their detached laces, then washing with detergent on a cold wash, which will help prevent the colours from fading. Washing at the same time as their swimming towels, dirty jeans, or smelly PE kit should soften any blows your shoes might give to the washing machine drum.

Drying Your Clean Trainers

Dry trainers outdoors, if you can – but away from direct sunlight as this could fade the colours. Otherwise, find somewhere warm and dry with a good air current (on a windowsill, near a fan or air conditioning unit or in the airing cupboard).

Stuffing shoes with newspaper, and changing it when it begins to feel damp, is a good way to speed drying as the paper absorbs some of the excess water (this is also a handy tip for all your shoes if you’ve been out in the rain or if the kids have been splashing in puddles.) You can also accelerate the process by removing the insoles and washing and drying them separately.

Resist the temptation to put them in the tumble dryer though as this could add to the wear and tear of them.

Depending on the weather, it could take several hours, or even a couple of days for the trainers to dry, so you may need to plan ahead. Washing the kids’ trainers the night before they need them for Sports Day might be cutting it fine.

An Even Quicker Fix for Washing Trainers

If the trainers only need a quick freshen up, or you don’t have time for a potentially lengthy drying process, just washing the laces, the insoles and wiping down the soles is a fast-track way to an immediate impact.

Hope you've got what you need from this blog post! Check out a few others for some great hacks!

How to clean a toilet?

To keep your porcelain gleaming and smart toilet seat looking good, we recommend some simple tips on how to clean a toilet.

How to clean a toilet is not irrelevant because if you use one of the numerous cleaning agents on the market incorrectly, it can damage the toilet and the toilet seat’s materials and gleaming finish.

Simple tips on how to clean a toilet

Before you clean a toilet, it is a good idea to put on a pair of rubber gloves to protect your hands and avoid the spread of bacteria.
Start by pushing all the water out of the toilet bowl with the toilet brush. This will make it easier to clean the bottom of the bowl, and the cleaning agent will work more effectively when it is undiluted. 

Avoid getting toilet cleaner on the toilet seat

Use toilet cleaner for daily cleaning of the toilet. Follow the product's instructions and remember to use it inside the bowl. If toilet cleaner and other chlorine-containing or caustic cleaning agents come into contact with the toilet seat and hinges, it can result in damage and airborne rust. Therefore, it is best to leave the toilet seat in an upright position until all the toilet cleaner has been washed away. 

Stripes in the toilet bowl

If there are limescale deposits or yellowish streaks in the toilet, you may want to use a pumice stone to remove the limescale or use a mixture of soft soap and vinegar (1:1 dilution). Simply spread the mixture onto the stripes and leave for 1 hour. Then scrub the mixture off with a wet sponge and rinse.

How to clean a toilet - exterior

When cleaning the rest of the toilet, simply use a mild soapy cleaning agent. If you have a lift-off toilet seat, remove the seat to facilitate cleaning the entire toilet bowl. Clean the toilet seat with the same soap and vinegar mixture. It is important that no moisture is left on the toilet seat or the hinges. Therefore finish by drying both the toilet seat and the hinges with a soft dry cloth.

http://www.makemoneywindowcleaning.co.uk/how-to-clean-windows--the-basics.html for information on how to clean windows 

15 Tips To A Clean Fridge!

1. Pre-Clean Dirty Culprits

Sure, it might seem like a no-brainer for most of us to clean up things after they spill or leak in the fridge (think bad milk cartons, sticky condiment bottles, poorly designed takeout boxes), but what if you cleaned those things before they had a chance to mess your fridge shelves? That’s right—pre-cleaning is sometimes actually the best way to clean. Give everything that could turn on you a good wipe-down before sticking it in the fridge, from jam jars to ketchup bottles to oily dressing containers. 

2. Keep Things That Go Bad Easily Where You Can See Them

Not all messy stuff can be fixed with a pre-clean; some stuff just has to bust out its grossness in its own good time. That’s right, it’s time for another pre-cleaning tip, but trust us, it will all be worth it once you’re up to your ears in actual cleaning elbow grease. It’s inevitable that some items in your fridge are going to cause a mess at some point in time—rotting veggies, bad meat, all that smelly stuff—so keep them where you can see them, so it won’t come as a horrible surprise when your kale or hamburger or strawberries go bad and you don’t discover the horror until weeks later. Don’t be afraid of that crisper drawer, it’s easy to peek into for a reason.

3. Put Dates on Stuff

If it’s not obvious by now, the weirdest way to clean your fridge is to pre-clean it, or at least get it primed for best cleaning practices. The biggest villain in the fridge will always be the spoiled stuff that is there way past its prime—hello leaks, spills, and bad smells. But what if your pre-wipes and sightline tricks don’t work? Date things. Date everything! Stick a marker next to your fridge and use it to mark down the date an item enters your icebox so that when you’re wondering just how long that dried-out pizza has been there, you have an answer. (You can also use masking tape and a pen if you don’t want to write directly on things.) And then you have no excuse for not tossing it post-haste. 

4. Use that Baking Soda...

Chances are you’re familiar with the concept of leaving an opened box of baking soda inside your fridge to trap bad smells, but do you know how to accelerate that process if something smelly gets by that handy box? It’s easy enough—just spread out some of your baking soda on a baking sheet or dinner plate and place in the middle of your fridge. It can stay put until the odor is gone.

5. ...And Kick It Up With Coffee

Does your bad-smelling fridge need more than baking soda can provide? (We’re not judging.) Add some fresh coffee grounds to your baking soda tray and let them work their magic. There will be a coffee scent for a bit, but that too will fade away, just like whatever gross thing is plaguing your fridge.

6. Clean the Edges

While it’s not as obvious as cleaning shelves and bins, cleaning the edges of your fridge (where the doors seal up against the icebox) is infinitely more satisfying. It’s also really gross, mainly because most people don’t even think about the gunk that collects there (Got pets? Get ready to find plenty of pet hair lodged in there). Give the edges a wipe every few weeks to keep it at bay—use hot water and a touch of white vinegar on a rag to really make that thing pop. Then wash that rag. Maybe a lot. 

6. Power Off

If it’s finally time to get down to business with actual, hardcore, hands-on fridge cleaning, there’s one little thing you might want to do that you’ve most likely never thought of. Turn the fridge off. Unplug it. Why? Your power consumption will thank you, because you’re going to have that thing open for a quite a long time once actual cleaning commences.

7. Throw Out

You can do it. Check those dates, be honest about what is still good and what you’re going to eat, and toss out anything that doesn’t make the cut (or seems too gross to actually eat at any point in the future). Work your way from top to bottom, fridge first, then pop that freezer open and go to work there. (Close it quick! Remember your fridge isn’t running!) 

8. Keep It Cold

You’ll surely still have some food that’s fit to eat after the clean out, right? Keep it snug in an icy cooler or, if you’re cooler-less or just prone to the makeshift, throw some ice into a big mixing bowl or salad bowl and let your still-good items chill out on top. 

9. Remove Your Drawers

That’s right—take those drawers right out. Give them a loving scrub with a classic mix of warm water and soap (sometimes the best tips are the most obvious). Really need to get them clean? White vinegar again. With this one, go one-half water and one-half white vinegar. Your drawers are going to sparkle. 

10. Take It Inside

Now is the time to clean your (now naked and empty!) icebox. Feel free to use the white vinegar solution, or turn back to baking soda, the refrigerator’s all-star. There’s no need to break out harsh, chemical-laden cleaning products that could get too close to your food—just mix up two tablespoons of baking soda with one quart of hot water. Use your clean rag pal to get in there with your new favorite cleaning mix. Dry off everything with a clean, dry rag or a couple of paper towels. Put everything back in! (Crucial step!) 

11. Take It Inside, An Alternate Method

Used all your baking soda to soak up smells? You can use salt, water, and lemon for an equally safe (and easy) cleaning solution. Dissolve an entire cup of household salt into a gallon of hot water, add a squeeze of fresh lemon juice, and get to cleaning. 

12. Clean Exteriors

The inside of the fridge is just the tip of the iceberg. For maximum fridge cleanliness, you’ve got to hit the exterior, too. Of course, this is all taking place very close to your foodstuffs so, again, let’s stay away from chemical cleaning agents. Do you happen to have any of that white vinegar mix hanging around? You do? Take it to the front of your fridge by way of another clean rag (heads up—clean rags are your friends) to clean and shine up your doors and sides. Have a stainless steel fridge? Rest assured, you can still use the white vinegar mix on it. 

13. Meet Your Drip Pan

So you’ve cleaned the inside and outside of your fridge, have been vigilant about keeping things fresh and dated and spill-proof—what could possibly be left to do? Meet your drip pan. Not every fridge has one, but if yours does, giving it a clean may actually alter your life (it will at least horrify you the first time you do it).

You can locate the drip pan by removing the grill from bottom of your fridge (down below the door) and using a flashlight to find it. You’ll know it when you see it. It’s made to be pulled out, so get some gloves on, remove it, and clean the heck out of it. For this one, we’ll allow the use of bleach—even white vinegar can’t fix everything.

14. Meet the Coils

Let’s be honest—you’ve never thought about the back of your fridge, have you? The closest most of us have gotten to that particular side of our icebox is that episode of Friends where Joey sees the back of his fridge for the first time and promptly yanks off the coil backing. Don’t do that! Love those coils! (And, by love, we mean gently vacuum them every few months or so.) Your fridge will work better and you’ll feel great pride in being the only person you know who has actually cleaned the back of their fridge. It’s wacky, but it works. 

15. Be Lazy

If working your way through ten-plus steps to a sparkling fridge sounds like madness to you, there are a few ways to wing it (and that’s okay, too). One way to avoid having to wipe down the shelves on a consistent basis is to line your shelves with plastic wrap or cling wrap. Once things get really bad in there, just yank up the wrap and put in a fresh layer.