Monday, 23 May 2016

How To Clean Leather like A Pro With Items From Home!


How to Clean Leather


Leather is expensive, and we’re conditioned to think of it as a delicate material. So it’s natural that an industry has developed to service our fear of damaging a valuable piece of leather in the process of cleaning it. But in fact, though leather can definitely be mistreated, it’s tougher than we usually give it credit for. After all, most of its usefulness is based on its durability.
Most of the time when you clean leather, you simply need to avoid drying it out or changing its appearance. With these concerns in mind, you can spend a lot of money on leather cleaning products. But if you’re working with finished leather, which has a slight sheen and is the type you see most often on jackets, boots, and furniture, you can use a couple of products you probably already have on hand. They’ll do just as good of a job, cost you next to nothing, and free you from worrying about chemicals in commercial leather cleaners that you could be storing in your home, inhaling, or allowing to touch your skin. If the leather you want to clean is unfinished like a baseball glove, or has a soft nap like suede, you’ll have more trouble cleaning it yourself; the method below may not work, and will probably damage the leather.

Steps to Cleaning Leather

  1. Soap, Rag, and olive oilFirst, get your supplies together: you’ll need gentle hand soap, olive oil, and a few soft, clean rags. You’ll need water, too, but you can get that straight from the tap. Then, before you jump into cleaning your whole sofa or that stain on the front of your jacket, it’s important to test the cleaning method from start to finish in a small, hidden place, just to make sure it won’t lighten, darken, or dry your specific piece of leather.
  2. Dampening ragOnce you’re ready to get started, you’ll need to prepare a rag by dampening it and applying a little soap. Get the whole rag wet if you’re cleaning a large area, but for small stains it should be sufficient to run a corner of the rag under the tap. Either way, remember that the rag should be just slightly damp, not soaking wet; squeeze out any excess water before pumping a small amount of hand soap onto the rag.
  3. Wiping down leatherRub the rag against itself a little to work the soap into the cloth before you begin cleaning. You don’t want to apply a glob of soap to a piece of leather. Instead, gently rub a light lather onto the leather until it appears clean.
  4. Rag under running waterNext, slightly dampen another rag to wipe any soap residue from the leather. Because even finished leather is not completely water-repellant, you should never rinse it with a very wet rag or by running water directly over it. Using a rag with a minimal amount of water on it protects the leather from absorbing enough water to become damaged.
  5. Dry rag on leatherUse a dry rag to remove the light film of excess water that may be on the surface of the leather after rinsing.Before moving on to the next step, it’s a good idea to also let the item sit for a few minutes to air dry in case the leather has absorbed water during cleaning.
  6. dry leatherFinally, you should always condition leather after cleaning, since the soap will have removed some of its natural oils. This is where the olive oil comes in. Put a very small amount of olive oil on a dry cloth and rub it into the leather. Using too much oil will make the leather greasy or sticky and attract dirt, so it’s crucial to apply only a tiny amount; if the leather is darker or shinier after oiling, you’ve used too much. I was very happy with this method of cleaning leather and you should be too! let me know!

Thanks For Reading, hope these tips are going to help you out! 

-M

Tuesday, 17 May 2016

The Easiest Way To Clean Brass!

Hi,

Thanks For Checking Out Fancy Window Cleaners Blog!
We are on youtube, be sure to subscribe to us to get all the latest tips and tricks.

Here is the short video explaining how to clean brass:

Easy as that!

Thanks again for checking us out!

-M

Thursday, 12 May 2016

Easy Steps To Leave Your Car Looking Brand New!

Car Washing: Cleaning the Exterior 

Before you start, you'll need the following car cleaning supplies:
  • A large bucket
  • A hose (preferably one which is connected to a water supply)
  • A large, soft sponge, a soft wash mitt, and a chamois
  • Liquid detergent (Although specialised car soaps are available, they are not essential. Always make sure you follow the guidelines on the labels.)
  • Plastic polish
  • Metal polish
  • A polishing cloth or sponge
  • Car wax
  • A toothbrush or specialised detailing brush
Once you have all your car wash products, you can start to wash your car! Remember not to wash your car on a sunny or overly warm day, as this will cause water to dry out too quickly and leave you with soap spots on your car. Either wait for an overcast day, or pull the car into the shade before you begin.
  1. Start by hosing the whole car down. Get the whole car wet to dislodge any surface-level dirt and to remove mud and grime from the wheels.
  2. Next, get your sponge, and give the wheels a thorough scrubbing. This will prevent any dirt from the dirtiest part of the car getting transported anywhere else later on.
  3. Now gently scrub down the bodywork of the car with your wash mitt.Lambswool works best here, as anything too abrasive will damage the paintwork. Dry the car off with a chamois, but remember to be gentle.
  4. Use your toothbrush or detailing brush to get dirt out of cracks in the bodywork.
  5. Polish any bare metal, but be careful not to use metal polish on non-metal surfaces and remember to always follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the product. Next, use your plastic polish to clean and polish your headlights, indicators, and brake lights. Dirty headlights are not only unsightly, but they can also lead to road accidents, so this step is absolutely crucial.
  6. Apply wax. Remember to wax your wheels as well as everything else!
  7. Lastly, clean the windows. Soap and water can do the trick, but glass cleaner will always give you better results.

Car Cleaning Tips: The Interior 

Deal with the interior of your car first. You'll need the following car cleaning products:
  • Shampoo (for fabric seats only)
  • Leather cleaner and conditioner (for leather seats only)
  • Protectant (for the dashboard only)
  • Detergent (for the pedals)
  • A handheld vacuum
Once you've got your materials together, the process is fairly simple:
  1. Read the instructions on the labels of each product before starting to clean.
  2. Then, shampoo cloth seat covers lightly to remove grime and absorbed liquid. Take extra care dealing with leather seats, and always follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
  3. Swab the dashboard and clean the pedals.
  4. Vacuum the whole interior with your handheld vacuum.
you can now enjoy a lovely clean motor!

Monday, 2 May 2016

12 Steps To Easily Clean Your Room


We know the perils that entail when it comes to having to clean your room...But don't we all feel so much better once its done? Here's twelve easy steps to get it done quickly and simply.

The Bedroom Deep Clean, Step-by-Step:
1) Pick Up and Put Away All Clothes, Books, Belongings
2) Strip the Bed
3) Launder the Bedding
4) Flip the Mattress
5) Push Aside the Bed and Clean Under It
6) Vacuum Out the Closet
7) Dust all Surfaces and Wipe Down Light Switches, Fixtures and Ceiling Fan with a Microfiber Cloth
8) Clean Windows and Mirrors with a Glass or All Purpose Cleaner
9) Vacuum Drapes with Brush Attachment, Wash Curtains (if possible) or Clean Blinds
10) Clean the Floors/Vacuum the Carpet
11) Remake the Bed
12) Enjoy a Well Deserved Great Sleep in your VERY Clean Room!

Deep Clean Your Bathroom in 7 Simple Steps

How Gross Is the Bathroom?

According to University of Arizona professor of microbiology Charles Gerba, who has conducted many studies of household bacteria, pretty darn gross. With supereffective tactics from Aggie MacKenzie, a coauthor of How Clean Is Your House?and with Gerba’s gory details to spur you on—you can clobber germs like never before. Whether you divvy up your antibacterial blitz into small sessions or complete it in one fell swoop, implementing these habits every couple of months will be like flushing your worries down the…well, you know.

Shower

What to do: Take it from the top: Pour an ample amount of white vinegar into a plastic grocery bag (enough to fully submerge the showerhead nozzle) and tie it in place for an overnight soaking. Remove it in the morning and run the water to rinse. Give plastic shower curtains and liners a spin in the washing machine with your regular detergent and a few old towels, which act as scrubbers to help get rid of soap scum and mildew. Rehang to dry. For shower doors, make a paste by adding a few drops of distilled white vinegar to a cup of baking soda; apply it directly to the door (it’s nice and thick, so it will stick). Let sit for an hour, then rub with a microfiber cloth. Rinse and buff dry with a fresh, dry microfiber cloth. The tub is less of an issue—a weekly scrubbing is usually enough. But for extra gleam, fill it with hot water, then drain. Apply a bathroom cleaner and let sit for 15 minutes before scrubbing.

Why: Besides the soap-scum issue, there’s the showerhead, which can harbor Mycobacterium avium, a pathogen linked to pulmonary disease. Gerba says that turning on a neglected shower can send millions of germs straight into your lungs.

Best practices: Wipe condensation from all surfaces after showering, and leave the window open for one hour a day to lower the room’s humidity level

Grout

What to do: Dip a grout brush in straight bleach and scrub any discolored areas; rinse well. Be sure to ventilate the room.

Why: Grout is porous and highly susceptible to bacteria growth.

Best practice: Seal grout every six months to help prevent moisture and grime from infiltrating

Tile, Walls, Ceiling

What to do: Spray tile, countertops, walls, and the ceiling with all-purpose cleaner and turn on the shower, cranking the hot water until steam builds (about five minutes). Turn off the water, shut the door on your way out, and let the steam and the cleaner mix for 20 minutes. Then wipe down all surfaces with a clean cloth. To reach high spots, use a clean, dry microfiber mop. Wipe the tile floor, too, but only after you’ve finished the rest of the dirty work.

Why: Soaps, along with the dirt and the skin cells they slough off, leave behind a microscopic film.

Best practices: To minimize water marks on ceramic tile, apply a coat of car wax once a year. Water will bead up and roll off. Mildew-resistant paint can also help on untiled walls and ceilings 

Toilet

What to do: Start by pouring a cup of baking soda into the bowl. Let sit for a few minutes; brush and flush. Still seeing spots? A damp pumice stone is abrasive enough to remove stains caused by mineral deposits and lime scale but gentle enough not to damage surfaces. Then tackle the toilet brush itself, which you should be cleaning after every use. Here’s how: Secure the brush handle between the already-cleaned seat and the basin so that it hovers over the bowl; pour bleach over the bristles. Let stand for a few minutes, then douse with a pitcher of clean water. Next, fill the brush canister with warm, soapy water and let sit; dump the dirty water into the toilet. In cases of extreme grime buildup (or acute toilet-crevice trepidation), you might want to invest in a small, light-duty electric pressure washer. It lets you blast hard-to-reach areas, like the spots where the hinges meet the seat, from a safe distance start on the lowest setting—you’ll be amazed by what comes out.

Why: Gerba says that a flushing toilet, when viewed in slow motion, resembles a fireworks display. And since germs linger in the bowl even after flushing, bacteria such as E. coli and salmonella can fly into the air and land on the seat, the handle, and other surfaces at any time.

Best practices: Always close the lid when you flush, and use the vent fan (it sucks up bacteria before they can settle). If you’re not already storing toothbrushes and contact lenses inside the medicine cabinet, you may want to start now.

Sink

What to do: Pour white vinegar or baking soda down the drain and flush with hot water. For the faucet, Gerba recommends disposable disinfecting wipes, which significantly reduce bacteria. (In contrast, cloths may just move germs from one spot to another; Gerba has even found bacteria from the toilet bowl living in the kitchen sink.) If you must use cloths, be fastidious about where each one is employed and stored. When the handles are done, floss the faucet (yes, you read that right). The stringy stuff is perfect for tackling that narrow, grimy space where the base of the faucet and the taps meet the sink.

Why: Prepare to shudder: The sink drain wins for highest bathroom bacteria count—topping even the toilet seat. In his research, Gerba has detected as many bacteria down there as you would find on a cutting board used to slice raw meat. And faucet handles? You touch them after using the toilet and before washing your hands. Eww. 

Best practice: Dab baby oil on the soap dish to keep the bar from sticking and sliming up.

Hand Towels

What to do: Use the sanitizing setting if your washing machine has one (or bleach them). Replace with clean towels every three to four days.

Why: They’re shared by many, and they trap moisture—that’s a recipe for bacteria stew.

Best practices: Spread out wet towels on a bar, where air can circulate, rather than hanging them from a hook, where folds form. Don’t forget to clean the towel bar; it too collects bacteria. And avoid hanging wet towels near the toilet. 

Ventilation Fan

What to do: First flip the circuit breaker. Then remove the cover and soak it in warm water and dish soap. Use the vacuum’s nozzle attachment to get gunk off the fan blades; wipe with a damp cloth. Remove dust from the motor and other nooks and crannies with a stiff, clean paintbrush, and suck up the debris with a vacuum. When it’s completely dry, replace the cover.

Why: While it helps reduce mold and mildew, the fan also inhales a smorgasbord of airborne particles, which can linger on the blades and the vent.

Best practices: Put the fan on a switch timer (an easy job for a handyman), and run it during every shower and for 30 minutes afterward to keep moisture (and energy use) in check.

And for an overall best practice?Whenever you clean the bathroom, whether deeply or quickly, dry all surfaces well afterward.


You've been Cleaning your oven wrong this whole time!


You’ve Been Cleaning Your Oven Wrong All This Timeoven



If you haven’t been cleaning your oven like this, then you’ve been doing it wrong. You will be absolutely shocked by how effective this Newsner method is.
Here’s what you need:
-Water
-Spray bottle
-Baking soda
-A rag
-Vinegar
-A small bowl
And here’s what you do:
  1. First, remove the oven racks.
  2. Mix a couple of spoonfuls of baking soda with some water in the bowl. Create a paste that will be easily spread on oven surfaces.
  3. Spread the paste on the inside of the oven (baking soda will turn brown). Let it sit overnight (at least 12 hours).
  4. The next day, take a wet rag and wipe out as much of the baking soda paste as you can.
  5. Put some vinegar in a spray bottle and spritz on surfaces where you still see baking soda residue. Then wipe with a wet rag.
  6. Put the racks back in the oven and turn the oven onto a very low temperature for 15-20 minutes to let dry.
To clean the oven window:
  1. Make another paste out of baking soda and water.
  2. Apply the paste directly to the window and let it sit for 30 minutes.
  3. Use a clean rag to wipe the window clean.

Voila!

15 Secrets to Cleaning Your Home in Half the Time

1Have a System

Speed-cleaning expert (and maid service owner) Debbie Sardone says that cutting your cleaning time in half starts with a system. That means cleaning the house in the same order every time: Working one room at a time, starting and finishing at the same spot in a room so that you don't waste time running back and forth.

"To get the time down, you have to be consistent—that's the whole premise," Sardone says. "You do the same thing every time you clean, so it is a routine. The routine is the method, and that is an inherently better way to clean because the speed comes from the method instead of from hurrying. You really can clean your house in half the time. It's not a gimmick."

Clean Top to Bottom, Left to Right

Don't start a room by wiping the coffee table, then clean the blinds, and seeing the dust from the blinds coat your newly clean coffee table. Sardone says to start at the top of the room, such as dusting a ceiling fan, and work down to the floor to eliminate redundant work.
Likewise, cleaning left to right ensures that you cover the entire room instead of darting from place to place.
"Most people see something and clean it, then they look up and see something else and clean it, and the dirt falls down on what you just cleaned," Sardone says. "If you work top to bottom and left to right, you're working once instead of cleaning areas you've just cleaned."

3 Squeegee Windows for a Streak-Free Finish



Can't get the shine you want with Windex and paper towels? Author and speed-cleaning expert Laura Dellutri's weapon of choice is a professional-grade window squeegee, which starts at about £10. Place a drop of dish soap in a gallon of water, wipe it generously on the window with a cloth, then squeegee it off. "Go top to bottom and wipe the blade each time at the bottom," she says. "You'll get a window that is streak-free."
If you don't want to use a squeegee, Dellutri recommends a glass cleaner and a microfiber cloth. When wiping with the cloth, use horizontal strokes and move from top to bottom. Don't clean a window by rubbing in circles, which can leave streaks, and avoid wiping the glass with newspaper or paper towels, which leave a residue.

4 Keep Proper Tools at the Ready


Having all the tools and cleaning products you need at arm's-reach means you won't waste time walking back and forth to the cabinet under the sink. Sardone recommends wearing an apron, or even a carpenter's tool belt, and filling the pockets. This might be hard with several large bottles of cleaner, but you don't need large bottles—pour the cleaners into small spray bottles that are easy to carry. You can also place your supplies in a caddy or a bucket to stay organized and save time.
"If you hired a carpenter and he went up and down a ladder every time he needed a nail, you'd never tolerate it," Sardone says. "You want him to have everything with him. You can do the same with cleaners."

5 Get Proactive


The best way to keep a clean home is to stop some problems before they begin. For example, Dellutri recommends using a shower cleaner, which costs less than £2 for a trigger bottle, to prevent grime and scum buildup in the bath. "You can spray it on and walk away," she notes. "Every time you take a shower, spray it on to prevent having a dirty shower. Spray it on, rinse, and walk away. You don't have to wipe or anything."

6 Dust Without Spraying


Feather dusters work great for cleaning blinds, pictures, nooks, and other areas. Sardone likes ostrich feather dusters, which start at about £4, because the feathers tackle the dust and the large quills don't fall out of the handle. "You want a high-quality feather duster that will fit in your back pocket," she says. The duster works well for routine dusting, but for heavy buildup, you'll need to vacuum or use a cloth, then use the duster every two weeks or so after that.

Grease inevitably ends up on kitchen cabinets, especially those above or next to the range. You can buy a cleaner with orange oil to wipe off the grease, or you can use a standard grease-cutting dishwashing detergent. The detergent will cut through the grease on the cabinets just like it does with dishes.
Mix one tablespoon of liquid detergent with a gallon of warm water. Test the solution in an inconspicuous area, wiping it on with a clean sponge or cloth, to make sure it won't damage or discolor the finish. Then rinse it off with a different sponge and clear, warm water.
For tough stains or buildup that won't come off with detergent, mix baking soda with water and lightly scrub the problem area with a cloth.

8 Lemon Cleaner


Rust stains on patios, porches, garage floors, and driveways are eyesores, but you don't need acid to remove them. Instead, use a lemon. The acid in the lemon juice will dissolve the rust. Cut the lemon in half, squeeze the juice onto the stain and let it soak in for about 10 minutes. For stains that have been on the concrete for weeks, months, or longer, scrub with a hard bristle brush. Then rinse off the lemon juice and gunk with clean water.

9 Battle Bathroom Mold


Mold haunts bathrooms that aren't well-ventilated because water remains on the walls after bathing. Use hydrogen peroxide in a trigger-spray bottle to battle mold and mildew, Dellutri says: "Spray it on, let it sit 3 to 5 minutes, and it will kill the fungus."
To keep mold from coming back, use a fan when showering. When you're done, take a couple of minutes to squeegee the water off the tile walls and shower door.

10 Defeat Mineral Deposits

If mineral deposits from hard water have stained your plumbing fixtures, don't clean them with bristle brushes or pads. They can scratch the faucet. Instead, use white vinegar. Pour some on a clean cloth and wipe the faucets. It doesn't take much effort to make them sparkle.

11 Keep Stainless-Steel Shining

Fingerprints, smudges, and watermarks are the enemies of stainless-steel sinks and surfaces. Mineral oil can help you beat them, Dellutri says. "Pour some mineral oil on a cloth and wipe it down once a week. This repeals the water." The mineral oil also helps keep toothpaste and other items from sticking to the sink, making it easier to wipe clean.

12Make Friends With Magic Erasers

Sardone and Dellutri both are fans of Mr. Clean Magic Erasers, which cost about £2 for a four-pack. "They take stains off when nothing else will," Sardone says. "Keep a couple in your caddy when you're cleaning." Dellutri says the Eraser is ideal for cleaning walls and almost any floor surface, including wood, laminate, and tile.
The inside of your microwave probably looks like a war zone, and baked-on food, especially if it has been sitting for days or longer, can be tough to remove. 
The trick: Have the microwave help you. Dellutri says to put a coffee cup full of water in the microwave and heat it up until it's boiling hot. "This creates moisture that loosens up anything on the top, sides, or bottom of the microwave," she says. Then take a damp cloth and wipe the surfaces clean.

14 Vacuum in Rows

Dellutri's secret to effective and efficient vacuuming: Do the entire length of the room in a straight row, then move over and start again at the front of the room. Dellutri says to vacuum high-traffic areas once a week.
"Vacuum in long corn rows, and back out of the room," she says. "You can do it fast, and put the cord over your shoulder so you're not fighting it. When you're done, it looks beautiful."

15 Speed-Clean Regularly


If you really want to cut down your cleaning time, Sardone says, then you really need to clean more often. Once you've deep-cleaned your house, give it a once-over every couple of weeks. It'll keep the place looking nice and spare you the long, agonizing job of doing several months' worth of cleaning at once. "You create maintenance cleaning instead of catch-up cleaning," she says.

Hope these tips are going to help!

-M

www.Fancywindowcleaners.com